Word: yves
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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Along with Cocteau, the avant-garde French writer and film director whose aphorism he quotes frequently these days, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent may be fou like a fox. After years of beguiling women into austerely tailored pantsuits, now, in this cool age of less is more and casual is all, the world's most influential couturier has stopped the parade with a collection of high-camp peasant fashions that are impractical, fantastical and egotistical. They are also subtle, sumptuous, sensual and jubilantly feminine. The overwhelming first American response, both from those who deal in clothes and those...
Added Dimension. Yves' leaves are not newly fallen. The shape of Y.S.L. to come was foreshadowed last spring, when he displayed a ready-to-wear collection that embodied in less expensive form the essence of the couture show. Thus reversing the traditional cycle of a high-fashion collection followed by a mass-manufactured version of the same clothes, Saint Laurent's top-line show echoed-and amplified-his earlier collection. This strategy, rather than the designs themselves, was the real revolution. The very same week that fashion writers were trumpeting the glories of Saint Laurent's haute...
What, then, are social historians to make of the "revolution" that overwrought fashion editors were declaring last week (see MODERN LIVING) after Yves Saint Laurent revealed his fall collection? What mysteries of the Zeitgeist were riding on the mannequins' shoulders? Saint Laurent's muse told him women will now look like czarist imitations of gypsies, booted peasants in $5,000 velvets and taffetas, long-limbed and slightly fantastic creatures. The feminine mystique becomes the feminine muzhik...
...since 1789 had the word revolution been bandied about so freely in Paris as it was last week. Storming the barricades of conventional fashion was Designer Yves Saint Laurent, 40, whose latest haute couture collection could alter the way women will dress in the next decade. The 800 or so journalists, store buyers and private clients invited to the lavish showing were awestruck. Some were even reduced to tears as Saint Laurent's models glided along the runway, demonstrating what many predicted would be the New New Look: narrow waist, calf-length bouffant skirt for daytime and huge...
...this way is a refreshing and salutary experience," says Yves Montand. No wonder. Of late, he has been assassinated in Z, tortured in The Confession and kidnaped and murdered in State of Siege, but in the comedy he is now filming in Italy, Le Grand Esco-griffe (an exuberant man too clever for his own good), Montand is permitted the luxury of survival. "This comedy is sublime," he says. Ridiculous, too: the hopelessly ill-fated kidnaper-star ends up stuck with the kidnapee...