Word: yves
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Along with Cocteau, the avant-garde French writer and film director whose aphorism he quotes frequently these days, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent may be fou like a fox. After years of beguiling women into austerely tailored pantsuits, now, in this cool age of less is more and casual is all, the world's most influential couturier has stopped the parade with a collection of high-camp peasant fashions that are impractical, fantastical and egotistical. They are also subtle, sumptuous, sensual and jubilantly feminine. The overwhelming first American response, both from those who deal in clothes and those...
Added Dimension. Yves' leaves are not newly fallen. The shape of Y.S.L. to come was foreshadowed last spring, when he displayed a ready-to-wear collection that embodied in less expensive form the essence of the couture show. Thus reversing the traditional cycle of a high-fashion collection followed by a mass-manufactured version of the same clothes, Saint Laurent's top-line show echoed-and amplified-his earlier collection. This strategy, rather than the designs themselves, was the real revolution. The very same week that fashion writers were trumpeting the glories of Saint Laurent's haute...
...Yves' designs? Taxis, chairs, doorways aren't big enough for these enormous skirts." And, some asked, how often will a woman get to wear such fantasy clothes? As the perennially best-dressed Mrs. William McCormick ("Deeda") Blair Jr., of Washington and international society, said in Paris, "It's not every day of my life I'd want to look like a Ukrainian peasant!" (She has not yet put down any kopeks for one of Saint Laurent's new creations...
Some of the bitterest attacks came from Saint Laurent's compatriots, who have a fairly good history of deploring innovation in the arts. "I'm a friend of Yves," expostulated Le Figaro's fashion editor Viviane Ch. Greymour. "But I didn't congratulate him on this collection! It's folklore, a show, theater, dreams." Another complaint-as if buyers of haute couture rode the subway -was that Yves' cloaks and skirts are "too wide to pass through the Metro turnstiles." The unkindest cut came from a jury voting during the week of the showing...
...since 1789 had the word revolution been bandied about so freely in Paris as it was last week. Storming the barricades of conventional fashion was Designer Yves Saint Laurent, 40, whose latest haute couture collection could alter the way women will dress in the next decade. The 800 or so journalists, store buyers and private clients invited to the lavish showing were awestruck. Some were even reduced to tears as Saint Laurent's models glided along the runway, demonstrating what many predicted would be the New New Look: narrow waist, calf-length bouffant skirt for daytime and huge...