Word: zabkowska
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With the onset of capitalism, Praga's main thoroughfare, Zabkowska, has been partly renovated, and young local artists have moved in, attracted by low rents and an abundance of postindustrial space. Now cool galleries and bars coexist with crumbling historic buildings that harbor Virgin Mary figures in their backyards...
Since Praga is rarely included in regular guidebooks, you might want to start with a visit to the Info-Praga tourist information center halfway up Zabkowska Street at No. 36, tel: (48-22) 67 00 156, www.infopraga.pl. "We advise tourists what to see but also which streets to avoid," says Julia Plachetka of InfoPraga. "Nothing bad ever happened to me here, but the legend of dangerous Praga is still alive...
...stroll down Zabkowska from west to east offers a blast of vibrant street culture, but be sure to peek into the quiet courtyards of the buildings that line it. At No. 13, for example, you can see an external wooden staircase dating back to 1870. Stop for Italian-style antipasti at Lysy Pingwin bistro, 11 Zabkowska Street, tel: (48-22) 616 02 56, or for a sandwich at the antiques-furnished W Oparach Absurdu café, which also has live concerts starting at 8 p.m. on weekends (6 Zabkowska Street, tel: (48-22) 660 780 319; www.oparyabsurdu.pl...
Continue down Zabkowska and you'll encounter the finest example of a former factory turned into an arts center at Fabryka Trzciny, 14 Otwocka Street, tel: (48 22) 619 17 05, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. The place used to manufacture marmalade and shoes; now it houses an elegant bar and a fine restaurant - with outside seating in good weather - featuring such classic Polish fare as stuffed cabbage, and pierogi filled with sweet cottage cheese. A meal like that is one great way to crown a day sampling Praga's artful...
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