Word: zumzum
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...restaurants in the Square devoted to hotdog cravers. The Underdog (6 Bow St., and prone to flooding on rainy days) has kosher hotdogs, multi-sized, -shaped, and -topped, with assorted garnishes, as well as bagels that are pretty good dressed up with their lox and cream cheese. ZumZum (9 Brattle St.), part of a small East coast chain, serves knockwurst, bratwurst, and bauernwurst, with very tasty potato salad. Remember to wash it down with their dark beer--it spikes the taste...
Basically, the UR is as American as Elsie's. Elsie's will appease your hunger, but the UR will satisfy your appetite as well. Before I go back to ZumZum, though, I'll have to be starved...
...probably the closest thing the Square has to a place where you could take your parents to dinner and tell them that they're getting local color. It has everything from baked beans and franks to a five-dollar filet mignon. ZumZum is designed to be more of a meeting-place or after-the-movie snackbar. But few people would want to meet in such a clean well-lighted place; with all the sausages hanging around like overgrown tonsils it reminds me of an operating room. Also, of course, the bright lighting makes it impossible to see anyone outside...
THOSE SAUSAGES hanging in ZumZum are fake; I asked the waitress--they're all very friendly--and she told me that they're made of some very solid, very heavy material. This sounds to me like a pretty accurate description of what they actually serve. Unless you like German food--about five different kinds of wursts--it's best to stick to the frankfurter with sauerkraut, a big juicy hotdog for 35 cents. The desserts, doughnuts, fruit salad, and apple crumbles, are also cheap and good. What ZumZum does best is breakfast, the standard fare plus apple pancakes, although...
...respectable restaurant for when you don't feel like eating Chinese or French but would like something better than Hazen's. The club sandwiches and the lunch specials will fill you up for under two dollars, including onion rings and French fries and cole slaw--also ketchup, which ZumZum doesn't supply, being strictly German. (Instead they have china pots of mustard cutely labeled "Das Sweet" and "Das Hot".) For supper you can get the usual things, with hot rolls. I tried the filet mignon. Most of the artistry was on the part of the steer, not the chef...